Cinque Terre Part 2

At Volastra, 335 m above sea level, we rested for a while in the shade of some huge cypresses next to this small church of Madonna della Salute before continuing on our way to Corniglia. The church is open at all times and since it is a working church we had only a quick peep inside.

The path continued winding through the hillsides and up to about 465 m above sea level before dropping quite steeply down to Corniglia. This is a view looking back towards Manarola.

And there, in the middle distance, is our destination, the village of Corniglia.

We just loved walking through the terraced vineyards. Look at these beautiful autumn colours.

Here is Willem rounding the corner of a curious stone shack in the middle of the vineyard, but it is no longer used - only the ruins remain. Well, maybe this is where the farmer likes to keep his ladder. Note the splashes of red and white paint on the corner. We found these markers very reassuring that we were still on the right track!

A part of the track entered a forested area where a valley cut through the hills. It was a welcome change after the exposed hillside, to be walking under the canopy of the trees, several of them huge old chestnuts planted there by the farmers of long ago. We were delighted by this terraced orchard. The farmer planted a few trees of various kinds, for example lemons, peaches, pears, olives and oranges. From here we looked back at the path we have just followed, on top of the terrace at the base of the tree line behind the orchard.

As the day wore on it was getting quite overcast, making it possible for us to take this magical picture facing the sea and into the sun.

Finally we started the steep descent towards Corniglia and at one tricky spot in the track we had to negotiate down these very narrow stone steps in a rather high terrace. Well, we had no choice, we just had to get down there. It was quite a relief standing at the bottom, being able to take this picture. From there on the track often consisted of steps (thankfully none quite as steep and narrow as these) and our already tired legs began to complain. However, with a few stops here and there we made it!

Corniglia lies directly below us.

Entering Corniglia, looking down on the church steeple.

When we finally reached Corniglia we had to find lunch, since it was already after 2 p.m. and we were absolutely starving. We were lucky to come across the Trattoria La Lanterna on via Fieschi, with a cozy and very homely atmosphere, where I had the most delicious pesto on pasta and Willem had a tomato and anchovy sauce on his pasta. We enjoyed a bottle of white wine form the Cinque Terre Co-operative Winery with our meal.

I read that the Cinque Terre is the birthplace of pesto. Basil, which loves the temperate Ligurian climate, is mixed with cheese (half parmigiano cow cheese and half pecorino sheep cheese), garlic, olive oil and pine nuts. It is typically enjoyed on pasta.

The Trattoria La Lanterna is on a small square and as we left, we walked along the one end of via Fieschi where it was so narrow that one could only walk along there, or perhaps lead a donkey. To reach the homes at the top there was but a stairway cut from the rock cliff for access.

After lunch we decided that was enough walking for one day, and we made our way through the town, down the hill and down a long zig-zag stairway towards the station.

We caught the train back to Sestri Levante from platform two at Corniglia station.

Here is a last look at Corniglia with its buildings stacked one on top of the other.

We returned to the hotel at around 6 pm. Being very tired after the physical exertions of the day, we had a bath and crawled into bed, going to sleep without any supper.